If I’m honest, I’ve never really been much of a man’s man. I have no interest in football for example, and not much of a competitive side (except when it comes to bowling.) There are some things, however, that turn me into a grunting, knuckle dragging Neanderthal in a heartbeat. One of these is barbecue meat.
On my last visit to Noryangjin Fish Market I noticed some interesting street food happenings in the area immediately beside Noryangjin station. Alongside the usual dukbokki and tempura places, there were a few stalls serving up some food I’d never seen on the street in Korea before. I was naturally intrigued, but with time pressing on and several pounds worth of raw seafood in the offing, I was unable to investigate further.
I’ve been dying to write about a Taco Truck for ages. Last month I almost had my wish. El Camion is a Korean Taco joint Inspired by the Taco Truck scene in the US. It does a decent enough line of Korean inspired Tacos, but as a bricks and mortar establishment it doesn’t really count.
Despite having been in Seoul for almost six months, last Tuesday was my first visit to Noryangjin Fish Market. Situated next to the shimmering 63 building in the South West of the city, Noryangjin is the best place in the city to get your hands on some fresh seafood at really good prices.
There’s something about the area between Jongno and Dongdaemun that sets it apart from the rest of central Seoul. Heading west along the Cheongye stream from City Hall, it feels like you are stepping into an older, less polished part of the city. The chain stores and restaurants gradually thin out, to be replaced by smaller, more specialised outfits, and the suits and high heels morph into work clothes and more practical forms of footwear.
I’ve recently noticed a lot of street kebabs around Seoul, and although I love the idea, I’ve yet to find one I really like. Most seem quite light on meat, and the other day I got one with chopped pickle inside.
In a perfect world (or at least back home) kebabs involve riotous mountains of meat, stuffed into pita bread with a bit of token salad, then drenched with savory chilli sauce. Usually eaten when drunk, a good portion should fall on your clothes, and the kebab should account for at least half your hangover the next day.
Operating between the hours of 10am – 5pm every Sunday, the Filipino market in Hyewha-dong is an essential part of Seoul’s Filipino community, many of whom attend services at the nearby Catholic Church.
The market sells a range of imported goods including super-strength San Miguel, tinned fish and even fresh papaya – the sort of small comforts that provide a connection to home for immigrant communities all over the world (kind of like costco without the massive trolleys)
I recently came across this mandu and steamed bun hole-in-the wall whilst out roaming the streets near Hanti Station in Gangnam. The billowing clouds of steam and stacks of shiny aluminium steamers instantly grabbed my attention, and I resolved to get in on the action asap.
Working out of an open shop front, this two person operation was churning out food at a frightening pace. On the menu was two different types of regular sized mandu, a larger, bun sized mandu, and a steamed bun of epic proportions. I chose a portion of kimchi mandu (6 pcs, 3000 won) and one of the steamed buns (1pc, 1000.)
One of the great things about Korean street food are pochangmachas. Literally translated as “covered wagons,” these self contained tents are like mini outdoor restaurants, and are fantastic places to start or end a night of eating and drinking.
A good place to check out one of these is a street off Jongno near Jongno 3-ga Station. Here, dozens of pochangmachas line each side of the street, selling such delacies as octopus, skewered chicken hearts and shellfish – all served with plenty of sojo and beer of course!
Sweet potatoes are a big feature of Korean street food. They are used to make glass noodles for dishes such as japchae, and in winter they are often baked whole in little stoves. Another use for sweet potatoes is sweet potato chips. These are made by deep frying long thin “chips” of sweet potato until golden and crunchy.
