Daddy Donkey’s new Breakfast Burrito certainly sounds good: a flour tortilla is piled high with sausage, egg, rice and beans; spiked with your choice of salsa and guacamole (optional); then rolled up into a gargantuan tinfoil log. But how does it taste? I recently made the journey down to Leather Lane to find out.
It was obvious from the first few bites that there were a lot of positive contrasts going on. The deep, smoky taste of the slow cooked beans was neatly matched by the lighter, fresher coriander-lime rice. Likewise, the burn of the salsa was nicely tempered by a cool garlicky guacamole.
But it was the choice of breakfast ingredients that I found most interesting. I came expecting a spicy sausage like chorizo, and chili-spiked huevos; what I got instead was a proper British banger and scrambled eggs.
This was by no means a bad thing. The salty meatiness of the banger reached above and beyond the other flavours and gave a real heartiness to the burrito. And the eggs reminded me of a good old-fashioned lesbian porn greasy-spoon fry-up!
I really liked these touches. One of the things that interests me most about food (and street food in particular) is how it changes and adapts to its environment. By throwing in a few British cooked breakfast classics, Joel Henderson celebrates his food for what it is: Mexican food by an English bloke down a lane in London.
The result was a hot and hearty burrito that filled me up way beyond lunchtime.
That said, I’d probably draw the line at cornflakes.